The New Dong’an Plaza in the Wangfujing Street during the 1990s Photo: CNSphoto

Over 60 years ago, Wangfujing Street, stretching from East Chang’an Street in the south to the intersection at Bamiancao in the north, was one of Beijing’s three major commercial districts. It was a frequent destination for me in my youth.

The street in memory

At that time, on the western side of the street’s southern entrance stood a two-story building erected by the French during the late Qing Dynasty, which housed the original Beijing Hotel (demolished in 1969). On the eastern side was a three-story Victorian-style building that served as the office of the State Oceanic Administration before it too was demolished in 1994.

Setting out from the southern entrance of Wangfujing Street, walking northward along the eastern side, the notable establishment was the China Photo Studio, which had relocated from Shanghai to Beijing in 1956. Renowned for its highly skilled photographers and advanced equipment, the studio was among the best in Beijing and commanded hefty fees. Over the years, the studio relocated several times, finally settling at the west entrance of Shuaifuyuan Hutong alley in 1999, where it remains to this day.

Further north stood a huge three-story building that housed the Xinhua Bookstore. In 1970, I purchased a book titled Is the Soviet Union a Socialist Country co-authored by Japanese scholars including Akio Shintani, and published by Hong Kong-based Joint Publishing. The content now stands far-removed from the present, but what I remember most is how I actually bought the book. At that time, it was one of the very few foreign-authored books available in the country and wasn’t openly sold or displayed on the shelves. When I inquired about it, the clerk bent down, retrieved it from beneath the counter, wrapped it in pink paper, tied it with a string, and handed it to me after payment. Later, I learned that the pink paper and string served as proof of purchase, to be shown upon exit. After the bookstore was demolished, a new bookstore was opened on the same site in the spring of 1970. Some scenes from the 1979 comedy “This Family” were filmed here. In the mid-1990s, as part of Wangfujing Street’s overall redevelopment, this bookstore, which had been in operation for more than 20 years, was again demolished and relocated north to the west entrance of Dongdan San Tiao, where it reopened in 2000 as Wangfujing Bookstore.

In the window of the Arts & Crafts Store in the northern side of Wangfujing Street was always displayed a silk embroidery titled “The Meeting of 1917,” depicting Vladimir Lenin and Joseph Stalin shaking hands. Further north was the renowned Jianhua Leather Goods Store, specializing in high-end fur clothing. Upon entering, one was immediately greeted by the distinct aroma of processed fur. Continuing north to the west entrance of Shuaifuyuan Hutong, you’d find the Lantian Clothing Store, which relocated from Shanghai to Beijing in 1956. I still recall that above the cashier’s counter were several thin wires extending radially from the cashier to each counter. When a customer paid, the salesperson would place the money in a metal clip attached to the wire. With a quick flick, the clip swiftly glided along the wire to the cashier. After processing the payment, the cashier would send the change and receipt back to the counter in the same manner, with no transaction ever intercepted midway.

Proceeding northward, one would come upon the New China Children’s Goods Store, which featured a sign written by Soong Ching-ling, followed by Hengdeli Watch Shop, Beijing Photo Studio, Tongshenghe Shoe Store, Shengxifu Hat Store, Sijixiang Fruit Shop, Biluochun Tea House, Wangfujing Food Store, Shenrong Herbal Medicine Shop, Huada Cloth Shop, and New World Silk Store. Among these, I still remember the unique counter at the Children’s Goods Store that specialized in repairing high-end electric toys. Outside Hengdeli Watch Shop, a large green clock displayed the time in Roman numerals. I was so used to Arabic numerals that every time I looked at it, I had to mentally convert the time. In the window of Shengxifu Hat Store was displayed an expensive hat made from sea otter fur, while in the Shenrong Herbal Medicine Shop’s window, a deer head specimen was prominently showcased. Beyond these memories, my recollections become hazy.

Before 1967, Dong’an Market was not situated on the main street. Its north entrance was located on the west side of the Jixiang Theater. Inside, various counters offered specialty foods such as fried creamy cakes, skewers of rock sugar-coated hawthorns, candied fruit, tuckahoe pie, and deep-fried Chinese medicinal cockroaches (Eupolyphaga sinensis), reputed to help relieve muscle rigidity and stimulate blood circulation. I still remember those shiny, deep-fried cockroaches displayed in metal trays within the glass counters—they looked disgusting, and I couldn’t imagine eating them. The huge, dimly lit shed housed shops of various shapes and sizes. The goods sold there were distinctly local, and included lacquered bamboo backscratchers, silver ear cleaners, handmade silk flowers, straw boards and more. In 1967, the entire Dong’an Market was demolished and rebuilt, officially reopening in 1969 as Dongfeng Market. The new market’s bright hall stood in stark contrast to the dim hall of earlier years, making it a popular presence in Beijing at the time. I remember that during the 10th National Congress of the Communist Party of China in 1973, the market hosted an event one evening to welcome the NPC deputies from all over the country to shop.

Features of the time

Near the Bamiancao crossroad stood an unmarked store with a perron—an exclusive store catering to Chinese people who had travelled overseas, accessible only with a passport for public affairs and a letter of introduction from one’s employer. At that time, private international travel was extremely rare, with most trips being official business. The goods sold inside could not be found elsewhere in the country, such as high-end cigarettes, fine liquor, perfumes, various cosmetics, handbags, and luggage. While these items are commonplace today, they were considered rare and coveted in an era of material scarcity.

The Beijing Department Store, the first landmark modern building constructed on Wangfujing Street after the founding of the People’s Republic of China, exemplified the architectural and operational characteristics of the times. The southwest corner of the building housed the Donghuamen Hospital, while the southeast corner was occupied by the Savings Office of the People’s Bank of China. Moving southward, there was the Pulande Laundry Shop, relocated from Shanghai to Beijing, a photography equipment store, Yanwenzhai Stamps & Engravings managed by the Special Trade Department of Public Security Bureau, the office building of the People’s Daily, and the Beijing Art Store. The outer wall of the People’s Daily building along the street was lined with a long row of display cases in which the day’s newspaper and journals were posted, which often drew passersby to stop and read.

Sixty years is just a blink of an eye, and time has greatly transformed the street. Returning to the southern entrance of Wangfujing Street and looking north, one can see that the entire street, after several rounds of redevelopment and upgrading, has changed profoundly, now presenting a blend of cutting-edge and older architecture. Among the few remnants from six decades ago are two notable buildings: the Beijing Department Store, completed in 1955, and the original office building of the People’s Daily, built in 1964, which is now the Haoyou Shopping Mall. The old Wangfujing, outlined by the gray bricks and tiles of hutong alleys, is gone.

Xu Changjiang is a research fellow from the Institute of Linguistics at Chinese Academy of Social Sciences.